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Owned the bike for 2 weeks now, drove around 300km so far. Observations 1. Mileage received is in the range of 50kmpl, will post exact number once the bike gets into reserve.
The seat was very uncomfortable. Hence put a new seat cover on. I am tall and my normal sitting position is a bit towards the backside than the dip in the seat for the driver. SO I had only one option, but to fill the dip with form and put a seat cover on top.
Its much more comfortable now and the additional 1 inch in seat height also helps. See picture below. Not sure how much impact it has on the aesthetics, but that comes second. Cost Rs 400/- 3. Replaced the stock halonix bulb with a Philips premium bulb. Wasnt able to check y'day night because of rain, will check and update later.
Purchased from AK traders, JC Road. I observed an oil leak below the engine, beside gear change lever. Please see below. DOes this sound serious? Planning to take it to service center this week. Previous owner has replaced the mirrors using Apache mirrors; I think that increased the visibility and looks. Brakes make screeching sound, guess that needs checkup too.
There are ECO and POWER modes in this bike. The visual indication is a LED lighting up based on certain RPM settings. Does anyone know if the modes make some changes in the way engine responds/burns fuel other than the just the display? (like the old TVS Victor which lights up a bulb the moment you turn the throttle above a limit). I observed an oil leak below the engine, beside gear change lever.
Please see below. DOes this sound serious? Planning to take it to service center this week. No, I don't think so. Everytime my GS comes from service, oil drips from the sprocket cover and chain case - due to copious chain lubrication done by the workshop. Does oil drip on the floor when parked overnight?
Fantastic decision on buying a used GS150R. Treat her well and you can just keep logging miles and miles. And yes, Suzuki has one of most impractical, irritating service schedules (they should learn something from Hero here). Yours is the first batch of GS? Its quieter than the recent ones and even has a rubber boots for the front suspension. As per manual, ECO and PWR modes simply alter the behavior of the LED light asking you to shift up.
But as per some people in the GS150R facebook page, these modes also alter the ignition timing (via ECU?). And GOD setting turns the LED off but retains the previously selected mode. Owned the bike for 2 weeks now, drove around 300km so far.
Observations 1. Mileage received is in the range of 50kmpl, will post exact number once the bike gets into reserve. The seat was very uncomfortable. Hence put a new seat cover on. I am tall and my normal sitting position is a bit towards the backside than the dip in the seat for the driver. SO I had only one option, but to fill the dip with form and put a seat cover on top.
Its much more comfortable now and the additional 1 inch in seat height also helps. See picture below. Not sure how much impact it has on the aesthetics, but that comes second. Cost Rs 400/- 3.
Replaced the stock halonix bulb with a Philips premium bulb. Wasnt able to check y'day night because of rain, will check and update later. Purchased from AK traders, JC Road.
My GS150R has clocked about 49000 kms in the past 4+ years. Mine is a first batch motorcycle (bought way back in Feb 2009). Engine is very smooth and ride is well balanced. This is one of the most reliable bikes in the market. I can vouch for that. And, by the way, I get 50-55 kmpl in city limits. No oil drips on the floor.
Just seen around the gear shift lever. I am not aware of the batch of this one, its a June 2011 made unit I suppose. Thanks Sarvodaya. There may not be many GS150Rs out there with 90000 km on the odo. Can you please share major repair work done so far with rough time/odo indications? That would be very helpful.
Nothing Major (Touchwood). First 30,000 KmS I gave it servicing every 2,000 Kms. Usual consumables like Engine Oil, Air Filter, Spark Plug, Brake Pads were changed. Chain Sprocket lasts 20,000 KMS. Front Brake pads lasts 20,000 KMS. The rear brake pad has been replaced thrice so far.
Suzuki Gs150r Workshop Manual
I replaced Clutch Wire thrice. Rear Tyre changed @ 50,000 Kms while front changed @ 55,000 KMS. Front Fork Oil @ 25,000 KMS. I had changed Front Brake Fluid only once so far. Accidental Parts are Front Mud Guard (Rs.2,500) and Front Cowl (Rs.600).
After 30,000 KmS, the bike is serviced @ 4,000 KMS. Rajkumar Suzuki Service has been good.
I had opted for AMC. AMC costs Rs.1,000 valid for 1 year. You get four service coupons.
You get 5 to 10 Discount on spares. Vehicle servicing @ Rs.100 (Normal Rs.400). Average Bill comes to Rs.700 per service excluding spares. I have the latest model gs with me bought in June 2014. I have now run close to 36k kms. I serviced my bike every 4k once I crossed 20k kms mark. Back tyre am planning to change: Which one shall I buy?
Also, my SE told me that piston and cylinder is weak. Since yesterday I am heaeing a small bell ringing sound at times. Is it normal for piston and cylinder to give up so soon? Wat are the precautions I should take before Replacing the piston and cylinder? Can I ride another 2k kms and change it?
Attention: No Sales Or Shipping To The State of California Due to emission law Product only to be used for off road and closed course competitions Not be be used on public roads or highways The listing is for Four 54mm (2.126 INCHES) airfilters (The listing is for four filters, when you 'buy it now' from ebay, enter qty '1', you will receive four filters, buyer doesn't need to contact us to confirm they are for four filters) Disclaimer: Following motorcycle models are for reference only, please measure your carburetor's mouth OD in order to get correct measurement. 54mm Frange Inside Diameter 3' x 2' Diameter at top (with 'Alphamoto' logo) 3.25'x 2.75' diameter at base 3.25' Tall (please check against the clearance distance on your bike) Comes with clamp Washable can be oiled or run dry, (oil for better protection) It will fit: Yamaha -XS650 1970-1983 and Mikuni VM round slide carburetors 32mm, and 34mm, TMX/TMS/TM 32mm and 34mm flat slide carburetors. Replaces OEM # 0.1. Mounting holes are 44mm center to center Inside diameter of mounting holes: 6.50mm Overall length of mounting plate: 67mm Overall width of mounting plate: 23mm Fit Models: 1982-1983 Suzuki GS450TZ 1982-1983 Suzuki GS450TXZ 1982-1983 Suzuki GS450ED 1981-1983 Suzuki GS750EX 1981-1983 Suzuki GS750EZ 1981-1983 Suzuki GS750ED 1981-1983 Suzuki GS750ESD 1981-1983 Suzuki GS750TZ 1981-1983 Suzuki GS750TD 1981 Suzuki GS1100EX 1983-1986 Suzuki GS1150E List Price: $10.60 Sale Price: $10.60. Additional Resources for: Suzuki Gs850 What brand of pants is the best?
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Suzuki Gs150r Review
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Is it possible to grind the corners Cam 20-30000 to obtain resolution of the cam in a right valve Suzuki GS850 (1983 Mod) What happens to the case hardning? Everything is possible. Only you can decide whether or not your bike is worth $ 5 10 Expenditures for normal maintenance or not.
I find it curious that although many people were ready and willing to encourage to do something insanely risky to your engine, nobody seems to have asked why you want to do? You ask about 'The size distribution Wedge. 050 mm 50 000 inch = approximately.002 'Two mil = 0.025 mm about 0.001' aka one thousandth corners are the norm in increments 050 mm, 002 'System actuation of the valve cam profile, etc.
Is designed to support incremental change of 0.050 mm and lead to open spaces in the factory specifications. There is no scenario in which 'Liquidation is too tight' for a change of the corner 'Size Next Thinner 'The result is usually IN-SPEC or vice versa for' too lazy 'free space. Therefore, there is no reason need than ever for 'Split-Wedge' Standard Wedge change You always progressive results of valve clearance in the manufacturer's specifications. Beyond especially the engine and all series Kin were long known as 'valve tensors. Meaning, the vast majority of time the valve opening SET bicycle during use. If only Download half-size 'standard instead of an increase in full, runs the risk of developing a valve too tightly, very soon.
But compared with the frequent check-clearing and fire-adapted Safegaurd cons of a valve too close. He is very clever to know how to get out of a corner valve Axis of employment, I Sposa. Although I do not know how smart is the risk of your engine in a block of $ 5 Valve. But none of this anywwhere is about as smart as the engineers who designed and developed the system to be practical, durable and practical repairable slices of 050 mm corner. It is nearly four decades since the method was introduced in the market. 100 of 1,000 's of engines, millions miles, if not TRILLIONS billion 'revolutions' All operating cycles, more service and satisfactory performance record.
Those who think they can beat, or even conduct focus - For $ 5 10, might consider leaving wasting time on Yahoo Answers and go all fantastic capacity and expertise of the Patent Office, and then the world of all engine manufacturers. 'm Not questioning the motives of their application, and not to criticize, well sure. Never hurts to ask.
But I can assure you, everything is very deliberate and designed effectively, and tested, who have never used wedges Off-Size. If somehow there are indications that you need to do that, 'You can see its dimensions and calculations. Any 'Borderline' state, standard protocol is to simply go to the standard size is cornerback. It is normal and acceptable to have a variation among all valve clearances.
And really nothing to gain trying to 'offset' against each other. Good luck Suzuki GS850 Rat Rod Bike. Feature: -Brand: FXCNC -Condition:100% Brand New -Material: Plastic&steel -Intended Use: Replacement Part -Instruction: Easy installation,no instruction,if you don't know how to install,please go to professional shop It won't work with any key with chip inside,keys Come blank and ready to be cut by local locksmith perfect replacement for your broken/old key key For Suzuki With Logo.
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![Suzuki Suzuki](/uploads/1/2/3/7/123745914/112750426.jpg)
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Well, there are quite a few threads/posts dealing with carb tuning for various motorcycles, but I'll post again for the Pacco/Jikov carbs used on the Yezdi/Jawa. A brief description of the carbs: Pacco: These have just two screws, one spring loaded and one not. The spring loaded screw is the idle screw, the other is the AIR screw. The Pacco P43 is similar to the Jikov, as described next.
The Jikov (and Pacco P43): Three screws: two facing sideways, one facing down. The spring loaded screw facing sideways is the AIR screw. The spring loaded screw facing down is the IDLE screw.
The topmost screw without spring is to be screwed ALL THE WAY IN and left that way. NOTE: These carbs have an AIR screw (NOT MIXTURE screw). Screw IN = less air = RICH mix. Screw OUT = more air = LEAN mix. Now basic procedure to get a decent running motor. Turn the idle screw in to get a sufficiently high idle (so the engine wont die when you are playing with the air). Turn IN the air screw fully (do NOT overtighten).
If the motor dies, add some more idle and start again. Now turn out about 1.5 turns as a basic starting point. Now start turning out the air screw fractionally (in steps of 1/8th to 1/4th turn). Wait at every step, let the revs settle. You will notice the revs getting higher at every step.
At one point, the revs begin to drop. Leave it at this stage, get back to the idle screw and set a good rhythmic idle (approx. Now if you would like a troublefree cold start, close the air screw 1/4th turn.
Basically a richer mixture allows easier early morning starts. This process can be followed for almost all carbs. For the ones with a MIXTURE screw instead of an air screw, wherever I've said 'screw IN', just screw OUT. Identifying if it is an air or a mixture screw is already explained previously. Sankar, I have same BS 29 carb on the pulsar. Tightening the screw is rich and loosening the screw is lean. I was talking about only this carb.
When you say engine side, engine side is both left and right side, so its confusing to others. We are talking only about the carb shown in the first post. If you are mentioning about any other carb, please post respective pic of it.
Sankar is mentioning about the BS29 carburetor itself. There are two screws available for adjustment when viewed from the left side of the bike.
Idle adjustment screw and fuel screw which is closer to the engine. Spot it just below the choke lever. Engine-Fuel screw- Carburetor. Tightening the screw (clock wise) is lean Loosening the screw (anti clock wise) is rich (Turn it further anticlockwise and the screw will come off with the o-ring and the spring) Regards Adrian ( 1) Thanks.
I think Headers wants to know how to setup a carb, rather than how to set idling. @Headers: Why this sudden interest in carbs?
Regards Sutripta Google pointed me to TBHP - I just wanted to understand the various carburettor types and tweaks available. However, I am unable to get more elaborate information. Nobody talks about jet sizes, reference as to how to choose the jet, understand various methods and effects in various parameters of tuning a carb setup etc. How to read the car settings without opening the carb etc! Everybody talks about lean and RICH settings ( ) Thanks.
Suzuki Gs150r Service Manual Pdf
Everybody talks about lean and RICH settings Thats what the jet sizes too achieve isn't it? And that's all that there is to setting up a carb - lean and rich settings.
There are a lot of helpful info on setting up a carb over the Internet, starting from the very basics. There's a lot to read too - different circuits and at what throttle openings they operate etc. Getting the fueling right is not tough but it sin't easy either if one doesn't know where to start and what to read. One has to understand the engine - the way it responds, sounds, heats up, at various throttle positions and change the circuit coming into play at that particular throttle position as required. Plug chop is also necessary. Its safe to start rich and go poor (lean), its safe for the engine that way.
The last carb i set up was a 40mm mikuni flatslide on my Karizma in 2008/9. It took some days to get it to work on the Karizma and then it took couple of weeks to dial it in. The changes made were, jets-pilot&main/float level/needle In the end it was almost perfect and a lot better compared to stock CV, the bike was much faster with this one change.
The techniques used were-engine behaviour/engine sound/plugchop/enigne hotness. The details of the TM are in my Karizma thread. I couldn't fine tune it as my biking career ended shortly there after.
^^^ Do you have any specific questions? For Guruji - Questions: Basics 1. Pictures of various types of carburetors? Primary and secondary jets pictures? How to clean the jet? How to Tune the carburetor?
How to find out if the tune up is satisfactory? Download mq trainer with nova gem hack free download. How a particular carb is decided for a particular engine - Any calculations?
Why certain carbs are better than equivalent EFI engines? How carbs handle near AFR of 14:7:1?
Why carbs are loosing market share This one is easy and the answer is not power ( ) Thanks. I'm not an expert but can speak from experience, having worked on pretty much every single popular carb out there ranging from the Mikuni VM and BS series to Keihin flatslide to the Solex and SU carbs found on Fiats and Dolphins, the Jikov and Pacco found on Jawas, racing carbs on karts and formula cars etc. Carb tuning is not a simple subject and requires lots of theoretical knowledge as well as excellent feel for what your particular engine does under different conditions (by this I mean how it sounds, how it runs, how it pulls, transient response, how it slows down, how crisply it revs in neutral etc).
I would say that tuning a performance engine for the street is among the toughest things one can do, even more difficult than tuning it to run on a racetrack! I won't go into specifics, but almost always you have to start with good spark plugs that are properly gapped (preferably new), the best quality fuel you can get, and good quality two-stroke oil mixed at the correct ratio, if the engine is a two stroke. The air filter has to be clean as a whistle - if you don't take care of these things first, any misfires or other poor running can never be traced to its true origin, and this may not necessarily be caused by the jetting. Next thing you should do is read up very well on carb theory. There are many good automotive engg. Books that explain this very well. Reading on the internet is spotty because any idiot can write anything he wants - takes a bit more effort and credibility to publish a book!
After that, the important thing is to get hold of a workshop manual for your bike or engine and read the heck out of it. You need to understand EXACTLY what each adjustment does. Generally every adjustment on the carb is for a specific range of throttle opening. The idle and air screws that are on the outside of most motorcycle carbs, together with the pilot jet inside the float bowl control the first 25% approximately of the throttle opening.
The needle position, needle taper and the shape of the slide control about 25 to 75%. The main jet controls 75% to WOT (wide open throttle). Before beginning tuning, the important thing is to open and clean the carb thoroughly. Here in the US it is easy because you can buy pressurized aerosol cans of carb cleaner - just point and spray in any hole and you're done. If this is not available you can just use clean petrol and a toothbrush to get rid of most deposits - then blow well using your lungs. The workshop manual usually has a procedure to set the float height which is extremely important because it controls the mixture throughout the full range.
Learn how to set this properly using the manual - many times it will call for the use of a special tool but they usually also give a measurement from some surface on the body of the carb - its easy to measure using a ruler. Also check that the float needle valve is not worn out and leaking. In race engines we do different things with the float level to suit the track but this is not required most times for a street engine. Its very important to make sure that the carb is completely restored to the same condition it came from the factory.
The typical tunable parts that you can have on a motorcycle carb are: Main jet Pilot jet Needle Emulsion tube (the part that the main jet screws into) Slide Venturi (if removable) You can get to 95% of the perfection in jetting with just proper selection of a pilot and main jet, needle, needle position and adjusting the mixture screw. Most of the guys here will probably not experiment with jetting to a level where a slide or venturi change is required.
A two stroke is a lot more sensitive to proper jetting and therefore much easier to read. You can tell a lot just looking at the color of the plugs and the way the engine picks up and drops revs. A typical 'plug chop' involves running the engine at the throttle opening that you are trying to adjust (i.e. Main jet adjustment needs WOT runs) and then shutting off the engine and coasting to a stop. Pull the plugs and see the color around the outer electrode (called the land) and of the insulator. If it is oily or black, you know its rich. If its white and has specks of aluminum you probably melted something inside the engine and need to richen it out.
If its a mild to medium brown or golden color, you're doing it right. On a street engine that will see different weather conditions, different qualities of gas, different loading etc. I would not go too lean even though the engine feels awesome when it is on the edge and close to a complete meltdown.
Different people do different things but my preference is to use whatever it takes to get the engine started and running decently (not great but decently). Then do the main jet calibration.
You have to find a deserted piece of road to test full throttle acceleration. Start big and then keep reducing until the engine pulls hard, but you have to be careful: do a plug chop everytime. Multiple sets of plugs will be required during main jet adjustment. Once that is done, 50% of the work is over since you dont have to take the float bowl apart everytime to change the main jet (some carbs have separate fittings on the bowl to make this easier). Next, move on to the needle.
Needle selection is not easy, but it is if your choice is limited. Start with the needle in the highest position (i.e. Lowest slot) and keep reducing until you get very crisp acceleration at between 1/2 and 3/4 throttle. You have to play with mixture screw (the one that's on the outside of the carb) adjustment at the same time as needle position adjustment, in order to get the crispest response between 1/8 and 1/3 throttle.
Next is the off-idle and idle adjustment which is again an iterative process between the mixture screw and idle speed screw. Generally the crispest throttle response for spirited driving is not obtained at the manufacturer recommended idle speed - they do it for emission and fuel economy reasons. You may have to go a little higher and when you are done, the vehicle will take off very crisply from off-idle and transition to 1/2 throttle in a very smooth manner. Sometimes the pilot jet size needs to be finely adjusted if the engine response is not as crisp as desired. It takes a lot of experience to reach this stage unless the carb is from a completely different engine.
So like I said in the beginning, it takes a lot of time to learn carb tuning skills but its not hard. It just takes a lot of experimentation and discipline on your part (i.e. Keep notes of every adjustment you make, and the results) to achieve anything useful. Take it to the mechanic if you don't want to put in the time!